One of the my favorite parts of gaming is adding extras to a game. Not usually rules, but features that make the game easier to play, or more visually appealing.
I have been playing Strike Legion by Legionnaire Games for the past several years. It has a good solid set of rules for ground combat in a scale that I enjoy. Plus it has plenty of optional rules to customize it to your hearts content.
As you can see in my previous post I play it on a 2D+ battlefield. I have also add a number of extras to my game.
Electronic Warfare Record
One of the first additions I made were the battlefield condition markers. The game does come with these, but they are simply chits that you cut out and place next to a unit. I found these difficult to pick up so I made ones that I could slide into plastic game bases.
The electronic warfare chits can also be awkward to use. I made a sheet of cards that are designed to be printed out on the backside of the unit cards before you cut them out. Now I just record the values of DEW/OEW rather than moving chits around the battlefield with each units. I still place the chits next to the units at times; usually after it has moved and just the defensive number.
The To-Hit wheel has been a real help. Simply set the dial to the vehicle's signature, increase the number by the targets defensive number and modifiers, and decrease the number by the attacker's offensive number. The window then shows the to-hit numbers needed for different weapon ranges. It is designed to max out.
The Tactical Nuke marker is just for fun. Yes you can purchase acrylic ones, but this looks just as cool on the board and is a lot cheaper.
The action cards are just a quick reference for new players to help them remember their choice of actions.
The file containing all of these can be found here.
One of my gaming project this past winter was to build a set of modular battleboards to use with Strike Legion by Legionnaire Games. What I wanted was a set of boards similar to the maps I used to play on for Renegade Legion: Centurion by FASA. I originally planned to use these for teaching miniature gaming at the Strategy Camp I ran this past summer, but there wasn't enough time to play it during the week.
The idea was to have boards which gave the feel of miniature terrain, but would be easier to travel with. I wanted something that could be used to teach the use of elevation and cover, but more visually dynamic than just a map.
I used HeavyMetal Map to generate maps based on the Renegade Legion maps. These were excellent in their modular design and size. Each board is 2'X3' and printed without the hexes so they work well for miniatures. They are mounted on 1/4" MDF board for durability and are not to heavy for transport. Each level of elevation was cut out and mounted on an other layer of MDF. The maps are also laminated. The trees are made from model railroad lichen that has been soaked in a glue mixture. These can be moved for placement of miniatures, but add a nice visual effect.
Since I design this terrain with teaching new gamers in mind I use cardboard chits for the units, though I could just as easily use 6mm miniatures. I also made the brewed up markers out of paper (using the explosion markers from the Battle Pack from World Works Games).
To make it easier for the kids I also made a set of action cards so they could remember what actions are available and how they work. Plus cardboard condition markers like overwatch and immobilized. A To-Hit wheel lets them quickly figure the die roll needed to each target as well as different ranges. And just for the fun of it I made a paper tactical nuke marker.
All in all they turned out well and I hope to use them for next year.
Many years ago, when I was fairly new to gaming, I received Avalon Hill's Victory In the Pacific for Christmas. It quickly became a favorite with our gaming group. Over the years it still comes out. Recently as I was looking for a campaign system for Naval Thunder by Steel Dreadnought games I dug out VIP again. Looking on boardgamegeek.com I was inspired to update the board and pieces since the original look has not aged well.
After redesigning the board (I scanned my original board, then recolored and sized it) I decided to attach fleet areas to each side. Even though the board is much larger than the original (48" X 28" versus 28 X 22) it can get crowded with pieces. So each side has three fleet areas to put groups of ships with corresponding markers.
I also made a battle board to move units to for conducting combat. Around the edge I placed space for putting units at are in the various ports.
The pieces are mounted on 1/8" wooden tiles. The large pieces are 1.25" square, and the smaller ones are 1" square. These are larger than the original, which makes reading them much easier. I found actual silhouettes of the ships and then re-scaled them so that they would all be sized appropriately to each other.
I made several new markers which were not in the original game. A Battle tile to place in the sea area that combat on the battle board is fighting. Resting on the Bottom markers, Night/Day Action tiles to indicate a players choice of battle, and In Port markers to show that ships are being kept on the battle board areas.
The Order of Appearance charts in the original rules can often be difficult to view, so I made colored ones with images of my new markers on them. The first turn sheet for the Allies has a diagram of Pearl Harbor just for fun.
I have been pleased with how it turned out. I makes a classic game even more fun.
I am currently a retired, by choice, stay-at-home dad. My daughter, Maggie Reitz-Wells, has graduated from college and is married and working at St. John's College in Santa Fe, so my job is done. My education includes degrees in astronomy, physics and education. In the past I have been a high school science teacher, woodworker, game store owner/operator, worked at a real hardware store, summer camp counselor/director and even a US2 volunteer.
Right now I keep the home fires burning (literally), design games, and free-lance writing.